Monday, October 11, 2021

The Alternative Algarve: 4 Reasons to Visit this Part of Portugal

With near-everyday sunshine and plenty of culture, nature and gastronomic experiences to dive into, there is every reason to visit Portugal’s Algarve.

1. Soak up the culture and history

The Moorish castle at Silves (Shutterstock)

The Algarve has a patchworked past but no-one had a greater influence than the Moors, who took over Portugal in 711 AD and made it a stronghold during their rule. Silves was the country’s capital during their reign and while its winding whitewashed streets are a little sleepier these days, its Castelo remains one of its best-preserved Moorish castles. The Algarve’s present-day capital of Faro is oft-overlooked but its cobbled Old Town, which stands on Roman and Moorish foundations, is well worth wandering.

In truth, the Algarve has an untold number of churches and castles studding the region, none more impressive than Almancil’s Church of São Lourenço, whose blue-and-white azulejos (hand-painted tiles) are a pointer to the area’s artisanal artistry; the pottery at Porches village is another. Beyond the bricks and mortar, Almancil’s neighbour Loulé is a fascinating microscope on local life, with its buzzing Saturday market and vibrant carnival each February – the oldest continuous pre-Lenten party in Portugal.

However, it’s the Algarve’s Atlantic coast which is the region’s main lure, past and present. Climb Sagres’ Fortaleza for widescreen ocean views, while a stroll among the seafaring heritage of Lagos will acquaint you with legendary maritime explorer Henry the Navigator. 

2. Immerse yourself in nature

Many cycling routes cross the Algarve (Algarve Tourism Bureau)

The region has buckets of natural wealth, from craggy cliffs to rolling countryside sprinkled with almond, carob and fig trees (another Moorish legacy). Two ways to soak it up are by hike or bike, with a multitude of trails webbing the region. The 300km-long Via Algarviana is one of the best known, an old pilgrim path that weaves from Alcoutim in the east to Cape St. Vincent, Europe’s most south-westerly point. Cyclists and walkers can share the Rota Vicentina, a collection of routes which shows off the lesser-trod rugged south-west coast and its jagged cliffs and wildflower meadows. The wetlands of the Ria Formosa Natural Park host over 20,000 birds over winter, including its iconic flamingos, while it also has one of the largest seahorse populations on the planet. The Vicentine Coast Natural Park is another bird-rich hotspot, with red-billed choughs, peregrine falcons and white storks. 

 3. Gastronomy and wines 

Grilled sardines (Shutterstock)

The Algarve also owes its geography for its gastronomic prowess. Vegetables and pulses are grown across the countryside and, with 200km of Atlantic coastline, it’s no surprise seafood such as sardines, cockles and oysters are regular fixtures in dishes. Locals pride themselves on their traditional food, something best showcased in the Algarve’s food festivals. The mountain town of Monchique celebrates its centuries-old art of sausage making each March, while August is firmly seafood season, with Portimão’s Sardine Festival and the Olhão Seafood Festival among the must-visits. Make sure you try cataplana, an iconic Algarve stew made with fresh ingredients such as mussels, clams, chorizo and bacon. The Algarve isn’t just about home cooking though, as it also boasts six Michelin-starred restaurants. Don’t miss Ocean Restaurant at VILA VITA Parc to sample creative dishes made from local produce.

What better way to wash down all that food than with a glass or two of local wine. The Algarve’s 3,000-plus hours of sunshine annually give ample grape ripening time and towns such as Lagos and Tavira have lent their names to different vintages. The Algarve Wine Route connects many of its wineries, allowing you to go beyond the barrel and join behind-the-scenes tours. 

4. Make a splash

Learn to ride the waves at one of the Algarve’s many surf schools (Algarve Tourism Bureau)

As tempting as it is to relax on the Algarve’s 100-plus beaches, its sands are gateways to a plethora of watery adventures. Keen surfers should head for the north-western swells and sheltered coves of the Algarve’s western coast, with Arrifana and Bordeira beaches both popular surfing spots. The region’s southern edge promises equal thrills, whether it’s paddling the Benagil sea caves in a kayak or windsurfing the shallows around Ilha de Tavira. Boat cruises among the Algarve’s deeper waters provide memorable encounters with inquisitive bottlenosed and short-beaked dolphins. 

However, it’s the Algarve’s diversity of diving which will surprise you most with dive centres sprinkling the coast from Lagos to Albufeira. Kaleidoscopic coral, eels and octopus await, while the caves of Ponta da Piedade make for an eerie encounter. The Algarve’s storied history of shipwrecks are now artificial coral-encrusted reefs, none more so than the Ocean Revival Project, where four navy warships sunk near Portimão now draw lobsters, crabs, groupers and more. In fact, the Algarve’s diving is much like the region as a whole: astonishingly rich in variety, vibrant, colourful and a joy to discover.

Source: Wanderlust magazine.

Monday, September 13, 2021

Car Rental

I have found a few car rental agencies to use for rentals in Europe:

DiscoverCars.com

WiseCars.com

AutoEurope.ca

CarRentals.co.uk

Many of these are consolidaters that give the best price amount various agencies.

Friday, September 10, 2021

Updated travel info

Due to COVID-19, travel to Portugal involves some additional work. A few websites give details on travel and medical issues and procedures.

VisitPortugal has details on travel restrictions and other details here. Most importantly, as of August 31, 2021, travel to Portugal IS permitted from Canada. For extended stays in Portugal beyond the standard 90 day Schengen limit see here.

"A body temperature measurement system was implemented on arrival. Passengers will be requested to fill out a form from the Health Authorities (Passenger Locator Form), which will be provided by the Airline Company, during the flight. This information will be used to contact passengers, in case someone develops COVID-19 symptoms within the same flight."

Portugal's airport authority has information for travelers here.

Canada's Travel Advisory recommends no unnecessary travel outside Canada, here, last updated April 1, 2021.

Friday, September 3, 2021

Extended stay in Portugal

Portugal is part of the Schengen region and Canadians who travel there are limited to staying 90 days. If you want to stay longer, then a special visa extension is required. Portugal provides a 90 day extension to the Schengen visa duration. The only caveat is that you cannot travel to the other Schengen locations during this extended stay. (I'm not sure if you can travel to non-Schengen countries during this extended stay in Portugal. More research required.)

To apply for the extension, you first need to make an application online to book an appointment with the Portuguese immigration office once you are in Portugal. You need to provide two colour passport photos and pay the €64 fee. There is a good video from This Is Our Retirement on the procedure. They note that the best way to do your trip may be to travel first to one or more of the other Schengen region countries up until close to the 90 day limit and then go to Portugal for the rest of the stay and to apply for the extension. If it is in the winter months then Greece, Malta, Spain, southern Italy or southern France may be good choices for the first leg of the holiday.

Schengen region


Friday, July 23, 2021

Accommodations

International Living suggests a couple of websites listing apartments for both sale and rental in Portugal: idealista.pt and casa.sapo.pt.

Of course, another obvious site to check would be AirBnB. Here is an example in Albufeira.

In the hot spots of the Algarve region such as Faro, Lagos and Portimão the rent for a one bedroom apartment is around €1000, but there are many in the Algarve for less than €500, some with an ocean view. These are outside the "touristy" areas, typically smaller towns.

Lisbon

For Lisbon, Rick Steves has a recommendations for everything from bare-bones hostels to higher end hotels. I particularly noted Chiado44 Guest House and Feeling Chiado 15. Rick Steves also recommends My Story Hotels, an established chain of hotels with multiple locations around Lisbon and Portugal (Porto and the Azores). In Lisbon try My Story Hotel Rossio, My Story Hotel Tejo and My Story Hotel Ouro.

(Casa do Barão is another recommended bargain place to stay but is closed for renovation until October 2022.)

Algarve

Rick Steves recommends staying away from the central Algarve towns as being too touristy.

He recommends the smaller towns in the western area of the Algarve like Sagres, Salema and Lagos. He suggests staying in Salema and doing side trips to Sagres and Lagos. An alternative is a nice town in the eastern Algarve called Tavira. Tavira is a handy location for side trips to Spain. Transportation to these locations from Lisbon goes through Lagos. See Algarve Bus or Eva-Bus for bus schedules and booking.

Norm and Tina of This Is Our Retirement recommend the following providers of holiday rentals:
Pestana Hotels
Luna Hotels & Resorts
MGM Muthu Hotels
Alfagar Aparthotels

If staying in or near Faro and flying out of Faro, there is a a good inexpensive hotel near the airport also recommended by Norm & Tina of This Is Our Retirement: Hotel 3K Faro Airport.

For inter-city travel by train try Comboios de Portugal or Deutsche Bahn. For European flights Rick Steves recommends Kayak.

My research for short term rentals in Albufeira:

www.idealista.pt - 2 bedroom with parking in Guia, 83m. €1,000/mth

www.idealista.pt - 2 bedroom with parking, 97m. €1,100/mth

Lagos accommodations:

casa.sapo.pt - 2 bedroom apartment-hotel with parking, 110m. €1,200/mth

casa.sapo.pt - 2 bedroom apartment with parking, 110m. €1,199/mth

 

Monday, May 3, 2021

Albufeira

I recently saw this Youtube video of a couple ("This Is Our Retirement") who regularly vacation in Portugal, and they usually stay in the Algarve town of Albufeira. They winter in Portugal so they chose the Algarve for the weather.

They also look at staying at other small towns in the Algarve like Tavira (near the Spanish border),  Armacao de Pera or Lagos.